Daneker grandfather clock - diplomat

Last Edited By Krjb Donovan
Last Updated: Mar 11, 2014 07:37 PM GMT

QuestionEdit

I have set up my late grandmothers clock. It is a Daneker clock. Diplomat is the model. It is chain driven with 3 weights. I set this up and raised all 3 to their highest point w/ assistance in holding the wt as well as pulling the chain. I attached the pendulum and gave it a nudge to begin it swinging. It will actually tick on the right side and tock on the left as its moving. It will only do so for about 4-5 minutes and slowly stops. I have only looked well at the movement and it does not seem disrupted. the two pieces of the suspension spring look perfect and straight down. The clock is level. What else may be wrong and keeping it from continuing to run? Please advise. Thanks for your insight. What else can i

AnswerEdit

, I will copy you on some procedures I have written to check out a clock that is not running. Also, when you pull the chains down, pull straight in a consistent motion. You do NOT have to hold the weights to assist the winding. The movement is designed to be wound without assistance and will not damage it. I discourage clock owners from doing this because I have taken too many service calls for clocks in which the weights were "assisted" and they became unhooked and crashed through the bottom of the clock.


THE FIRST LEVEL IS THE SETUP.

If a clock movement is in operating condition but not working, I would check the stability of the clock in that it doesn't rock or wobble on the floor. It should be relatively level. The level is not critical, as setting the beat (below) will correct for this.

Next, verify that the weights are hung correctly. On most clocks the weights vary in weight. The general rule is that if two weights are equal, the third weight, if it is heavier, goes on the right side (as you face the clock). If the third weight is lighter, it goes on the left. Is the pendulum hanging configuration correct? This means that the suspension spring, hanger, verge and pendulum are all connected properly with nothing broken, especially the suspension spring. When the pendulum swings, it should be "in beat", meaning that when the pendulum swings you hear an even tick....tock....tick....tock. If it is uneven, like tick..tock......tick..tock, the clock will probably stop. Most later model movements have an "auto-beat" mechanism. The beat can be set by holding the pendulum over to one side next to the case and releasing it. It will automatically correct itself. If it does not have this feature, the escapement crutch will have to be slipped manually. If required, I can give you instructions for that. Also check to see if the hands are catching on each other or the dial. Look at the chime and strike hammers to see if they are all in alignment at the rest position. Sometimes jammed hammers or the drive mechanisms will stall the clock.


THE SECOND LEVEL INCLUDES MAINTENANCE

This includes cleaning, inspecting, oiling and adjusting. In the inspection, the movement is checked for adjustments, broken or worn parts. If there are any broken or worn parts, we go to the third level. If all parts are okay, a good clock oil and grease is used. In most cases the movement should be removed from the case to have access to all the lubrication points. Clock lubricants can be bought from clock suppliers. Using lubricants for other applications can cause problems, as some lubricants are not compatible with others. This even applies to different clock oils. After lubricating, the operation is checked for final adjustments. I recommend maintenance be performed every 7 to 10 years.


THE THIRD LEVEL IS REPAIR.

This requires that the movement be broken down and all parts inspected and repaired or replaced, and then reassembled lubricated, adjusted and tested. I do not recommend this except by an experienced clockmaker.

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