Forestville mantle clock

Question

I have inherited my grandmothers Forestville mantle Clock, it chimes 4 times an hour, which was a beautiful sound, at first. There are 3 places to wind, one above the 8, one above the 6, and one above the 4. Which of the three do I wind, if I just want the hour chime, and keep my beautiful clock running. Thank you, Nancy Bics

Answer

Nancy, I don't know the model number of your movement, but most have the same winding configuration. The left one is for the strike the center for the time and the right is for the chime. So you would wind the center and right winding arbors and not the left one. I will advise you that when either the chime or strike mainsprings is not wound, occasionally it will stop in the middle of the chiming or striking and can cause the clock to stop. If that happens with the strike, just wind it a turn or so and let it run down again. Then turn the minute hand back a couple of hours (it should strike a little) and then reset it to the correct time. I have had this happen a few times and it works for me. Let me know how it goes.

Question

Firstly I would like to thank you for sharing your passion and knowledge. My vintage 40's Forestville mantle piece chimes and dongs always 4 min past the 1/4 and hour. How do I adjust this or is this something that a pro needs to do?

Answer

Chris, without a model number (sometimes these were not on this era clock) or a photo, I'm going to guess at the type from a 1930's clock I am familiar with. If it is a strike only clock and not a chiming model, it would strike out the hour count and once on the half-hour. If it is a chiming clock it would chime on every quarter and strike out the hour. If it is what I am thinking, it would chime 4 minutes past each quarter. If it is the hour and half hour strike, it would strike 4 minutes past the hour and half-hour. To correct the problem, stop the clock. Turn the minute carefully until it strikes the hour (4 minutes past as you said). Remove the hand nut and the minute hand. Observe the position of the minute hand before removing. As the hand is on a square handshaft, the hand can be put on in four positions, and only one is correct. There should be a small brass bushing on the back of the minute hand. Using a good pair of pliers, use them to hold the bushing with the hand at a right angle to the pliers (This keeps you from pinching your fingers if the pliers slip). Grasping the minute hand with your other hand, carefully slip the hand back what you think is about 4 minutes. It's a good idea to grasp the hand minute hand near the center to avoid bending or breaking the hand. Reinstall the hand in the same position from which you removed it and check it to see if it points to the 12. If not, go through the procedure again. When it looks good put the hand nut on and tighten it. Reset the time and let it run. If you find it is still off a little. Go through the procedure again until you are satisfied. If you have any more questions or if the configuration of the clock is not as I have described, get back with me. If you can, send me a clear digital photo of the hands on the clock. My shop email address is below.

Question

We have a Forestville mantle clock that had belonged to my grandmother. The clock gains time and I have not been able to find a way to make an adjustment. Is there a way to slightly slow the clock down. It gains time faster as it runs down. Also there are three winding holes and we only use the middle one for keeping the time,as we do not use the chimes. Are the other two holes for chimes only or some other purpose. Thanks.

   Brian

Answer

Brian, first on most clocks with 3 winding holes, the left one is for the strike, the center for the time and the right for the chime. You are correct, if you don't wind the chime and strike, they will not sound.

As far as the slowing down, there can be a combination of factors, such as components weakening or being changed for weaker or even stronger replacements. This includes the suspension spring that is at the top of the pendulum assembly, the weight of the pendulum bob, and the time mainspring. Clockmakers (including myself) have run into this frustrating problem and it takes a lot of testing and changing out of some of these components to get it to work correctly or close to it. I have heard of some that have never been corrected entirely. I just don't know how to tell you to do this. It would really be best to have an experienced clockmaker look at it. Sorry I don't have a definite answer, but it's one of those things I have to have in my hand.